48 hours in Manila

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Strictly speaking, Manila is one city—the historical capital of the Philippines, on the shores of the Manila Bay. But say “Manila,” and any Pinoy will assume that you mean Metro Manila, a megalopolis of 16 cities and a municipality. It’s a behemoth that is still overlooked as a destination, but if you’re willing to embrace the chaos and the uncertainty of this particularly large urban jungle, you can find a wealth of experiences you won’t find anywhere else. For one thing, here’s the chance to have breakfast in one city, zip over to a second city to bike through a forested watershed, and end up in a third city for lunch. Two days isn’t nearly enough to see every corner of Metro Manila, so consider this a starting point.

8 am
Wake up in the Ortigas business district, the quieter, smaller neighbour to the more famous financial capital, Makati City. There are a number of charming little cafés right in the middle of everything—really peaceful on a weekend—but you can head over to Kapitolyo, a residential area just outside the business district that has, over the past year or so, become a dining hotspot. You can have cheery breakfast in Milky & Sunny, have your caffeine jolt in Epic Coffee, or go vegetarian in Edgy Veggy.

9 am
Drop by the Lopez Museum (G/F, Benpres Building, Exchange Rd., Ortigas Center) to take in the current exhibit of contemporary Philippine art, or to view their permanent collection from the recognised Masters of Philippine art. You can also visit their library, which houses an excellent collection of Filipiniana. Check out their website, too for updates on their frequent activities, like talks, classes, and concerts, open to the public.

12 nn
Head northwards, towards Quezon City, and make a stop around Katipunan Avenue—a long strip that contains two of the country’s most prestigious universities: Ateneo de Manila and the University of the Philippines, along with Miriam College. The area has that youthful, dynamic vibe of the best university towns everywhere, and that extends to the establishments around the place, from bookstores and thrift shops to cafés and yoga studios.

2 pm
Go past the University of the Philippines and past the Senate building on Commonwealth Avenue, and you can end up in the La Mesa Watershed, an eco-park open to the public that has a picnic grove, flower gardens, outdoor concert venues, and even bike trails. Pack a picnic lunch to eat under the trees, then hit the trails and take in some air for an outdoorsy afternoon. You won’t believe you’re still in the city.

8 pm
After stretching your legs and sweating it out outdoors, get ready to have a late night out in the Timog and Tomas Morato area, two streets known for their restaurants and for their nightlife. You can go catch a lounge act, have a few (harsh) laughs at a comedy club, or simply have a long, late dinner and drinks with friends at your choice of bars.

DAY 2

10 am
No rush to finish breakfast at the Bonifacio Global City—not really a city, but a privately developed district within Taguig, and just outside Makati. BGC’s wide streets and sidewalks, dotted with green spaces and parks, makes for a pleasant, laid-back morning walk. You can start your day in Wildflour Café + Bakery, where many expats and residents gravitate to (4th cor. 26th Street).  

11 am
Book a tour through the Mind Museum, a state-of-the-art science learning facility for children ages 5 to 95. There are about 250 interactive exhibits throughout the museum’s five sections, along with occasional special exhibits that revolve around a particular theme. When your kids (or you) are tired of learning, go soak up the sun at the serene JY Campos Park, or continue the education in a more fun setting at Science-in-the-Park.

2 pm
By this time, the grownups will want their turn at the museum, so head on over to the Ayala Museum in the central business district of Makati. Though the traveling exhibits are always worthwhile, it’s the museum’s generations-old dioramas depicting Philippine history that continues to be the museum’s main draw. It’s the most entertaining crash course on the subject you’ll ever find. After a culture-filled day, just walk out of the museum and into the spacious grounds of the aptly named Greenbelt Mall, home to both international and local designer brands, and, one of the largest in the world.

5 pm
Make a beeline for Manila Bay to catch the world-famous sunset (or to gaze out into the waters and think about the great naval battles that have gone on there). The good folk at Sofitel Philippine Plaza (Atang dela Rama Drive, Pasay City) put out cushions out on the lawn for guests to lounge about in whilst enjoying a sundowner from their bar. After dark, you can turn your attention to either the grilled food at the Sunset Bar, or the amazing buffet at Spiral.

9 pm
Catching a flight out? You can make a last stop at Resorts World Manila, a casino-shopping mall-hotel complex right in front of Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal 3. Even if you’re not a gambler by nature, you can at least catch a show in the lounge—if you’re lucky, the entertainment will include acrobatics or magic instead of just the usual live bands. Schedule permitting, you can even catch a musical or a concert at the Newport Performing Arts Theatre, one of the country’s best theatre venues. The cinemas in the complex run 24 hours on weekends, so you can catch a movie while waiting for your red-eye.